Instruction Manual Switchmaster 9001 Manual
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Instruction Manual Switchmaster 9001 Series
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SwitchMaster premium highly-reliable slow-action switch machines are the finest quality.

Instruction Manual Switchmaster 9001 Manual

Wiring Schematics and Instruction Sheets

Wiring schematics and instructions sheets are provided with each SwitchMaster switch machine and accessory. They are posted here for your convenience.

Part #1001 SM-1 Premium Switch Machine

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

We believe our genuine SwitchMaster switch machines are the best you can put under your layout, with a technically superior motor, proven long-life, made here in America, and they are the easiest to install!

Figure A Installed Motor

SWITCH MACHINE PARTS
1	Geared motor, 3v DC
1	Brass motor arm (loop on one end)
1	.030' steel crank wire
1	1/16' brass tube (crank sleeve)
1	1200 ohm resistor (for 12v supply)
2	Mounting sleeves
2	#5 x 1-1/2' wood screws

REQUIRED TOOLS & SUPPLIES

Screw driver (Phillips)

Drill and 1/16' bit

File

Needle-nose pliers

Soldering iron (optional)

and Rosin core solder

Or alternately, ACC 'Super Glue'

Download bluestacks for mac os x 10.

Please read the instructions carefully. These tips will save you time and effort. It is possible to permanently damage the motor if too much voltage is applied! This is a 3 volt DC (direct current) motor. It should NOT be attached to AC (such as Aux. power).

CRANK POSITION:Your first task is to decide how to attach the crank to the throw-bar of the turnout. If you are installing the machine on an existing turnout, or if you are not concerned if the crank wire will be (slightly) visible, follow the directions in Step A. If you wish to hide the crank completely, follow Step B.

STEP A.Top of Tie Mounting:You can have the crank pivot from any point marked 'P' on Figure B. The 'line' between the pivot point and the hole you wish to use in the throw-bar must form a 90° angle to the throw-bar (the turnout points should be about midway, as shown in Figure B). The distance between the throw-bar and the pivot point (P) varies with your scale: about 3/8' for 'HO'; 1/2' for 'O'; 1/4' for 'N' and so forth. This is not a critical measurement, but a general rule of thumb. Adjust this to match your particular turnout. Drill a 1/16' hole through your roadbed and underlying benchwork at your pivot point (P) This hole should be as near to vertical as possible. Continue with 'INSERTING THE CRANK SLEEVE'.

Figure B Pivot Hole Locations

STEP B.OptionalHidden Mounting:If you haven't yet installed your turnout, you can make provisions to completely 'hide' the crank. First, mark surface of your roadbed where the turnout throw-bar will be.

Next, place a mark where you want the crank pivot point- you can have the crank pivot from any point marked 'P' on Figure B. The 'line' between the pivot point and the hole you wish to use in the throw-bar must form a 90° angle to the throw-bar (base this on points about midway between each outside rail, as shown in Figure B). The distance between the throw-bar and the pivot point (P) varies with your scale: about 3/8' for 'HO'; 1/2' for 'O'; 1/4' for 'N' and so forth. This is not a critical measurement, but a general rule of thumb. Adjust to match your particular turnout brand.

Drill a 1/16' hole through your roadbed and underlying benchwork at your pivot point (P), this hole should be as near to vertical as possible.

Mark a box around the outside of the pivot hole and where the throw-bar hole will be- this box should be 1/2' wide, and as long as necessary. Use a router (or sharp chisel) to remove the roadbed in this area to a depth of 1/8'. Reset the router to a depth of 1/16', and make a 'shelf' around the original hole (see Figure C this shelf will hold a piece of styrene or wood to conceal the crank).

Figure C Hidden Crank Wire

INSERTING THE CRANK SLEEVE:Locate the short piece of 1/16' brass tubing (crank sleeve). Slip it into the pivot hole. The top of the tube should be flush with the top of the ties (or flush with the bottom of the crank pit, if installed under the turnout), and the bottom of the tube should not extend more than 1/8' under the benchwork (don't worry if the tube is too short). If the tube slips too easily in and out of the hole, glue it in place.

PREPARING THE CRANK WIRE: Locate the .030' steel crank wire. File any burrs on the ends smooth. If you are installing the crank on top of the ties, bend the crank as shown in Figure D. The little bend on the end should be 1/32' for N or HO, 1/16' for larger scales. This fits into the throw-bar. Remember the variable space depends on your scale- we visually line ours up with the sleeve in the pivot hole before bending. Be sure and use a good pair of needle-nose pliers so the bends are sharp. Drop the wire into pla